|Skema rangkaian indikator suhu air|
- Op-Amp: LM324 or any quad opamp can be used or even four single op-amps.
- R2-R5: 330ohm resistors, but Lower values give brighter LED output.
- NTC1-4: Cold resistance was around 300K, hot resistance 15k. Alternative thermistors may be used with different resistance ranges, but the presets P1 to P4 must also be changed as well.
- R7-10: only required if your thermistors resistance is several ohms at the hottest temperature.
- P1 - P4: Chosen to match the resistance of the thermistor when cold.
- R1 & R6: 100k Resistor
Masking tape was used to stick the bead thermistors to the tank. Wires were soldered and insulated at the thermistors ends. A plastic box was used to house the circuit. Battery life will probably be 4 to 5 years depending on how often you use the push switch, SW1.
Thermistors NTC1-4 should be spread evenly over the height of the tank. I placed NTC1 roughly 4 inches from the top of my tank and the others were spaced evenly across the height of the hot water tank. As hot water rises the lowest sensor indicates the fullest height of hot water and should be about 8 to 10 inches from the bottom of the tank.
With a full tank of hot water adjust P1-4 so that all LED's are lit. As hot water rises, the sensor at the bottom of the tank will be the maximum level of hot water. "Hot" can be translated as 50C to 80C the presets P1-4 allow adjustment of this range.